Sunday, January 31, 2010

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Three weeks and counting....

Hard to believe, but oh, so true....... I've only three more weeks left in Buenos Aires, before heading out west. The curious little kid in me wants to spend every single second of the time cramming all the rides and sugary treats into every single moment I have left. And yet, to do so would go against the great lesson of Birgitta-"doing" everything isn't important, is only important to love and enjoy the few things that you choose to the fullest.

Spending time learning and practicing Spanish over the next three weeks pretty much goes without saying. I'll be in Spanish classes everyday, but as of five days ago, I only speak Spanish. I feel sorry for the people that have to endure my fubling around, but besides communicating with those of you in the States, speaking only in Spanish here really is the only way to learn. Many people in BA speak English so it would be possible to get along without it, but once you begin traveling outside of the city it's more difficult to depend on it. One of the German gals, Luciana, in the house is fluent in Spanish. She has turned out to be a wondefully patient Spanish reference, teacher and friend.

Other than that, Tango lessons are on the top of the list of things to try. Tango dancing is no joke here in Buenos Aires. It has a cult following of sorts that if I didn't know it was only dancing, I might be afraid to pursue it too intently. It's a serious sport here, for the seriously passionate. There is a documentary film on the subject, Surrender Tango, which I haven't seen yet, but I'm told it suggests that the rules and roles of the Tango are a metaphor for relationships. Sounds like the best self-help book I could ever dance!! I saw my first show last week, Tramatango. There are no words to describe the amazing dancers, but legs and high heels were flying! What more could I ask for, good excersice and relationship therapy all in one package.

I also hope to visit a very famous cemetary here, Recoletta, Casa de Queso, a cheese store (hehe), and El Ateneo, a gorgeous theater from the 1920 that has now been convered into a bookstore. And the rest, well, I think I'll enjoy it more if I allow it to bloom up along the way.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Good-bye Birgitta...

Birgitta left today. And I'm sad to see her go... She's the first of the Northern Europeans in the house that's heading back home within the next week. I've had a great time getting to know them all, seeing various shows, going to markets, taking weekend trips, shopping, and having coffees that last two hours minimum. Birgitta taught me the most though, using the fewest words in the least amount of time.

She is probably late sixties or slightly seventy and the spiciest, most elegantly eccentric little trick (in a good way) I've ever met. (And I've had the privilege to know a few of you gals!) If I where to compare her to food, she would be like an Indian curry of sorts, a mix of coriander and cayenne pepper that is ever so delicately balanced with coconut milk and cinnamon.

Her entire presence seems to move to a rhymn I've never known. She only ever wears black and white with accents of red, right up to her hair, which is short, raven black with a touch of red dye in her bangs. (It's difficult to describe that in a good way, but she looks amazing!) She speaks very calmly and quietly, almost like a waterfall. Every morning she took at least an hour to enjoy her coffee on the terrace, basking in the start of a new. I only saw her rush once and that was when she was rushing out the door for an evening of Tango with friends, which really was nothing unusual. She seemed to go Tango dancing every night till 4 and 5 in the morning, after many of the young ones had long gone to sleep. If fact, her whole purpose in being in Buenos Aires for two months was in pursuit of the Tango, and I'd like to think in pursuit of a life lived fully. (This is not to suggest that everyone needs to travel or live in another country to live fully...maybe only that we try to live more of the things we love.)

I hope that Birgitta and I will cross paths again one day, but even if we don't, I've experienced a new way of enjoying and living to the fullest at whatever age, at whatever moment one finds themself. It doesn't seem to be about how much we do in life, but how much we deeply indulge in the moments we're given.

Goodbye Birgitta... you'll be missed.

Sunday, January 17, 2010





Antarctica

Before writing any further about my time here in South America, I'd like to do a quick recap of my time in Antarctica over Christmas. For those of you who are Facebook friends and have seen more than your fair share of pictures, feel free to tune me out just this once. ;)

Antartica was an experience of a lifetime. Other than palm trees and gorgeous sandy beaches, I didn't really know what to expect, maybe a penguin here and there. It was beyond imagination though. The colors in Antarctica were simple, black, gray, blue, and white, and more often than not the landscape is deafeningly quiet. The secret to beauty of Antarctic is all about textures and shapes carved out soley by the hand of nature. The wildlife experience was incredible, as well. The birds, penguins, whales, and seals were plentiful. None of the wildlife acted fearful of humans, in fact they almosted seemed to want to greet and play with us. The seals were a little bit of an exception though. They were completly uninterested in our presense, hardly sturring from sleep when passing by. Most of our time was spent hiking, sleding, swimming, touring a research station, iceberg watching, and all sorts of wildlife watching. The great people we meet along the way was only the cherry on top of the entire experience....

Let me say that I could not feel more lucky to have had the opportunity to make this trip, but that much more special that I could make it with my Dad. He has been interested in going for many years and I'm more than glad to have flown as his wingman. Lots of love to you Dad! You know I'll be your wingman anytime- no matter how big or small the adventure!!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Landing in Buenos Aires

This post comes to all of you much later than I had intended, and yet I don't know that I could have written it much sooner. Though I've been in Buenos Aires for fifteen days, I finally feel like enough stress has melted away that I have space available for more than survival!


One of my main concerns before arriving in Buenos Aires was finding friends and ways to connect. Maybe this fear comes from having wrestled with the guarded nature of New England culture for over seven years. Let me assure you, however, that I've had no problems at all with meeting great people and other gals interested in experiencing all that Argentina has to offer! My second day here I meet a wonderful German gal and two Danish gals. We were actually still up chatting away the night when it rolled into December 31, 2009, my birthday! They were the first to wish me a happy birthday and invite me out for later that evening to celebrate a new year and a new age. That same day, I was also lucky enough to be serenaded with happy birthday by 8 German gals who sang to me in German, Spanish, and English!! It was one of the coolest gifts I've ever received!!! Since meeting them, it has been almost none stop action between seeing the city and meeting other new friends. Honestly, I could not feel more lucky, though I'm struggling with the opposite problem of needing to focus on getting more rest!


In terms of housing, I'm staying in a cute little guesthouse in the middle of Buenos Aires near my Spanish school which is run by a little family. There is a gorgeous patio right off my room with amazing plants (my favorite) and plenty of sun which acts as a common space for everyone. It's not only a lovely space, but a great way of meeting and reconnecting with everyone in the house on an almost daily basis.

All things begin considered, I'm fairly settled in expect for needing to take care of an annoying little issue regarding a cell phone. The idiosyncrasies of the front door, the laundry system, and exchanging money have all been successful tackled for the most part. I can already say, after only having been here for something like 15 days, that I know that this was a great decision for me and already I'm a better, stronger person.

The Happiest of New Years to you all!
p.s. It's hotter than Hades here, and I'm enjoying ever minute of it for myself and all of you shoveling snow!!!